Analyzing Erewhon’s costly empire
By NADIA ANEES — nsanees@ucdavis.edu
Early on a Friday morning in Silver Lake, a neighborhood in Los Angeles, I walked by means of shiny, sliding glass doorways painted with large letters studying “EREWHON.” It could be my first time contained in the full-service natural produce market-cafe and the most well liked influencer hangout in L.A.
Upon getting into, I may see the “tonic bar” to my left, the place a line of baristas have been whipping up vibrant inexperienced smoothies and iced lattes with natural uncooked sprouted almond milk. Forward of me was a fridge stocked with rows of multi-colored, fresh-pressed juices in Erewhon’s signature glass bottles, and additional down, the well-known Erewhon sizzling bar brimming with each veggie and meat possibility you might consider. Scents of contemporary, tri-color roasted carrots, kale and white bean salad and tender salmon filets crammed the air. In line stood many individuals with matching yoga units and thick sun shades. I felt I didn’t belong right here, however I used to be loving each second of the expertise.
Erewhon is understood for having attracted a cult-like following of shoppers who’re captivated with sustaining a really clear and lively life-style. Strolling round its slender, tall aisles is an enlightening expertise. You’ll discover the newest traits in numerous wellness concoctions, like sea moss gel and ashwagandha-infused matcha powder. You’ll depart with a snack and attention-grabbing beverage in hand earlier than realizing you’ve simply spent $50.
Erewhon has declared itself as greater than only a grocery retailer — it’s a lifestyle. As somebody who’s captivated with vitamin and wholesome consuming, I felt like I used to be standing in a little bit well being meals utopia — in spite of everything, that feels just like the intent of the shop. Though I definitely can’t store for the majority of my groceries from a retailer as costly as Erewhon, strolling across the retailer — or actually any well being meals retailer (assume Nugget Market, Sacramento Pure Meals Co-Op and even Davis Meals Co-op) — brings a couple of euphoric feeling for me. It’s one among my favourite pastimes.
I additionally love Erewhon’s values. I agree that wholesome, nourishing meals can heal communities. However which communities are Erewhon actually therapeutic? There’s a very particular, and admittedly, privileged, demographic of people that can take pleasure in its luxurious. This similar demographic is perpetuating the narrative of what wholesome must feel and look like.
Whereas those that can afford the Erewhon life-style are being nourished and supercharged by natural kale and celery juices, others are being pushed decrease and decrease into meals disparities. Have a look south of downtown L.A., and also you’ll encounter a area categorised as a “meals desert” — an space with a 20% or higher poverty rate and by which one-third of the inhabitants lives greater than a mile away from a grocery store.
I obtain a lot of pleasure and success by means of my well being meals retailer visits — however this entry itself is a privilege. What concerning the individuals who don’t even know {that a} retailer like this exists, or who couldn’t think about ever stepping foot inside?
The rise in reputation of more healthy existence and well being meals grocery shops is thrilling — it signifies that there’s growing power and keenness round constructing stronger, more healthy, happier communities. However the trendiness of well being meals shops like Erewhon makes me pause and take into consideration which communities are benefiting from these requirements.
Written by: Nadia Anees — nsanees@ucdavis.edu
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